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View of French Quarter & Mississippi River from our last trip |
I will be spending a weekend in New Orleans next month to celebrate my wedding anniversary and thought I might list a few of my favorite places to eat, drink and go see. I've been to New Orleans around 8 or 9 times now. It's such a quick and easy trip for us because we live in Dallas. Usually it takes us about 20 minutes to get to LoveField and hop a cheap Southwest flight and be in Nola about 1.5 hours later. Nothing better than leaving your house around 8:30am and being in the French Quarter sipping a Pimm's Cup by 11:00am. I hope this post doesn't seem too "Goop" but so be it.
I'll start with my favorite thing to do in N'awlins...EAT.
Places to Chow Down
Commander's Palace - great food and in a beautiful location. It's located in an old mansion in the Garden District. Food is nouveau Creole cuisine so it's not good for your waistline but it's worth the splurge. It is pricey and jackets are required. Definitely arrive at least 15-20 minutes early to have a drink in their bar - you literally "belly up to the bar" for your drink.
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The Palace |
Arnaud's - in the French Quarter and is our go-to "high end" place for dinner. You must be wearing long pants to eat in the main dining room and jackets are strongly preferred. It's more old school Creole cuisine so it's definitely not everyone's cup of tea. Think trout almondine and steak with red wine sauce, bananas foster, cherries jubilee, etc... Not creative by any means but solidly executed and the service is excellent. I love the dining room with its original tile floor and chandeliers and huge windows. So southern yet so French.
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Arnaud's main dining room |
Felix's Oyster House - in the French quarter and directly across the street from the better known Acme Oyster House. We have been to Acme but still prefer Felix's. First, raw oysters are exactly the same at each place. However, Felix's has the best chargrilled oysters in town. Waaaaaay better than Acme's and you don't have the ridiculous wait! We've also had their po-boys and jambalaya and they've been good but both places are all about the oysters. Felix's has awesome crawdads and their shuck-n-jive guys are true entertainers.
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Steve looking guilty for eating the last chargrilled oyster at Felix's when I went to the bathroom |
Mr. B's Bistro - great brunch. They are known for the BBQ Shrimp, which does not involve BBQ sauce. It's basically huge shrimp with the shell and heads still on that are sauteed in a rich buttery sauce with lots of spices. Delish!
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BBQ Shrimp at Mr. B's |
Honorable Mentions: Coop's Place; GW Fins; Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse; Luke; Stella!
Places to Drink
Old Absinthe House - one of the few places on Bourbon Street that I really like. It's in a historic building and has tons of sports memorabilia hanging from the ceiling. They make strong drinks and the bartenders are always hilarious - if you get the talking, you can hear some great stories. They have seen it all on Bourbon Street.
Carousel Lounge - located in the Monteleone Hotel. What a fun bar of you can grab a seat! It's made from an actual old Carousel and the bar chairs/stools revolve around the bar. How fun is that? (Did I just sound like Ina Garten?). Great classic cocktails and they do live jazz in the evenings.
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Carousel Lounge - how cool is this? |
Harry's Corner Bar - located in a quiet section of the French Quarter near the Ursuline Convent. Total dive bar filled mostly with locals and service industry people late at night. Again, strong drinks but a fantastic jukebox. One caveat - it is CASH only. BTW, it got it's name b/c it used to be owned by Harry Anderson, the guy who played the judge on Night Court.
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Making out at Harry's Corner Bar |
Napoleon House - Ahhhh....No trip to NOLA is complete for me w/o a Pimm's Cup from the Napoleon House (they supposedly invented the drink here). It is the perfect drink for steamy, humid, hot New Orleans weather - Pimm's liquor, lemonade/sprite mix and a freshly cut slice of cucumber, served over ice. The house itself is awesome - historic and was originally built for Napoleon himself as a place to live while he was in exile (he never made it).
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Napoleon House Interior |
Honorable Mentions: Molly's on Toulouse; Sazerac Bar in Roosevelt Hotel; Fritzl's Jazz Club
Soniat House - An old Creole house in the Quarter that has been turned into a small, upscale boutique hotel. We really love this place. It's in a quiet area by the Ursuline Convent so it can be a bit of walk to where all the action is on Bourbon Street and Canal Street but it's also much closer to Frenchmen Street and all the live music venues down there. It's very old school and is furnished with antiques so if a flat screen TV is a must for you, the this probably isn't your place.
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Soniat House View |
Maison De Ville on Toulouse - I have to caveat this by saying that we have not stayed here in years but will be staying here again next month. This used to be the ONLY place we would stay in New Orleans. It's right off Bourbon on Toulouse Street so it is smack in the middle of the Quarter. It's an old Creole house turned into a small boutique hotel (notice a theme with what I like). It struggled after Katrina and closed about 3 or 4 years ago. A new company recently bought it, spruced it up and reopened it about 6 months ago so we are giving it another try. From the website, it looks the same so I have high hopes. They did promise us our same old room, which I loved. We got a king size room on the second floor that overlooks Toulouse. The cool part is your window opens from the floor up so you step through it onto a balcony. Really fun to sit there in the morning or evening and watch the people come and go from Bourbon Street.
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View of Maison de Ville - our balcony is the one with flags on it |
Ritz Carlton - located on Canal Street on the edge of the quarter. Obviously, it's a big chain hotel but it is beautiful and the rooms are super nice. Also, Jeremy Davenport, a grammy-award winning jazz artist, plays in their bar lounge on the weekends.
Honorable Mentions: W French Quarter; Hotel Monteleone; JW Marriott on Canal
Royal Street - I can spend at least a few hours just walking up Royal and looking at the ornate wrought iron balconies and flowers. It's also fun to weave in and out of the various art galleries and antique stores that I can't afford. However, there are some fun jewelry stores and what-not with reasonable items.
Bourbon Street - it's gross, it's dirty, it's loud and it's totally tasteless which makes it pretty awesome. Bourbon Street pretty much gives the finger to the rest of the United States (I think of Cartman screaming "That's right. I do whatta want!"). We usually wander up and down it at least a few times just to people watch and look at the craziness and stupidity.
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One of Bourbon St's many sights (not my husband, see the
large man in gold sequin bikini behind him watching the Weather Channel) |
Aquarium of the Americas - located on the river, this is actually a really cool aquarium. I have a hard time getting Steve in here b/c of all the screaming kids in line but once you're in, it's large and has plenty of interesting and educational exhibits about the Mississippi river and delta, the swamps and the gulf. It also has otters. OTTERS, people. Is there anything cuter than swimming dogs that hold hands when they float and sleep? I don't think so.
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Look at this! How can you not die from cuteness overload?? |
Natchez Steamboat - totally touristy which is fun. Sometime I get snarky like Anthony Bourdain (be a traveler, not a tourist) and other times I am all "Paddle wheel boat with a bar??? Hell to the yes and where is my "I got Bourbon-faced on Shit Street" shirt to go with it?" Hey - if the weather is nice, this is a good way to spend the afternoon and you get some great views of the city. They also talk about the river and how it's still used today and it's interesting to check out the massive ships and barges going up and down the river.
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Bring on the Cheese Factor |
Things I Haven't Done but Want to Do:
Yes, even after 8 or 9 trips, I still have things left to see/do/eat in this city:
Lunch at Galatoire's on Friday - supposed to be a great tradition to put on your jacket and tie and line up to have lunch here with the city's movers and shakers on Friday afternoon. Martinis will be flowing from what I hear.
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Worth the wait from what I hear |
Eat at Willie Mae's Scotch House - voted best fried chicken in the US by Gourmet magazine a few years ago. You have to take a cab b/c it's not safe to walk here from the Quarter. I don't even like fried chicken really but I think I have to try this place at least once. Probably not this trip, though.
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Hmmm....Maybe. |
See Live Music (preferably Kermit Ruffins) on Frenchmen Street - we may try and do this next month during our visit. Apparently he usually plays down there on Friday night so we didn't make any dinner reservations for Friday to see if we can get in.
Muffaletta at Central Grocery on Decatur Street. I love a good muffaletta. We always get ours at The Napoleon House but people have been swearing by Central Grocery's for years and years. We walk by it everytime but have never gone in. Need to add this to my list for May.
I think that's all I have for now. If you ever go to New Orleans, drop me a line or comment as we have plenty of advice on where to go and what to avoid!